Heart Ring

Florence Koehler hated the finish of polished gold, and “muted” her pieces with semitransparent white enamel. Her choice of gemstones defied convention: she used cabochons (unfaceted stones), and preferred pearls to diamonds. Koehler based her designs on the gemstones, which she chose according to the personality of the individual for whom she was making the piece. (Laurie Eglington Kaldis, ed., Portrait of an Artist, 1947)