
1796–1804
Beginning in the 1790s the prevailing fashion for light, sheer cotton gowns necessitated a range of accessories to keep women warm. The short Spencer jacket complemented high-waisted gowns such as this example in the museum's collection (AIC 2019.787.1). The woman’s version was adapted from menswear and was probably inspired by the English second Earl of Spencer (1758–1834), who reportedly cut off the tails of a damaged coat and invented a new style. Short jackets were made of a variety of fabrics; this example’s block-printed cotton is a product of the French printing industry that was inspired by the global trade in colorful, Indian cotton fabrics.