Haori
1911–1921
- Medium
- Silk and rayon, plain weave with “kabe-ito” wefts; dye extracted through use of a chemical dye stripper, bassen applied in a tie-dye resist method (as used for te-kumo shibori); lined with silk, weft resist-dyed (kasuri), plain weave; stenciled and painted (kata yûzen-zome) and wool, plain weave; stenciled (kata yûzen-zome)
- Dimensions
- 96.5 × 120.3 cm (38 × 47 3/8 in.); Shoulder to hem: H.: 92.9 cm (36 5/8 in.); Sleeve: H.: 40.3 cm (15 7/8 in.); At hem: W.: 56.5 cm (22 1/4 in.); Sleeve panel: W.: 31.7 cm (12 1/2 in.); Center front panel hem overlap: W.: 5.7 cm (2 1/4 in.)
- Genre
- Textile
- Museum
- Art Institute of Chicago
Styles
Tags
silk (fiber)meijiEast Asianweaving - printedTextileJapanismasian
About
The pattern on this haori resembles the design that is produced by using a “spiderweb” shibori technique. However, the pattern was not achieved through shibori but was actually produced by using a discharge-dye technique that was employed in Japan after 1870. The lighter areas were created with an imported oxidizing agent that is applied to the exposed fabric, with the resulting removal of dye creating the pattern. This chemical method, combined with the use of rayon (introduced to Japan around 1916) in the haori, demonstrates how Japan adopted new techniques to achieve traditional designs.